Following the first part of our Working With Resin blog series, Tools and Equipment, it’s time to prep your resin miniature to start the painting process. There are several stages to consider when preparing your miniature kit, even before you begin putting it together. Keep reading to find out how to get your miniatures looking their best, ready to be painted.

Preparation

Checking for Missing Pieces

After opening the blister or box and unpacking your models, the first thing you should do is lay out every component and check that everything you need is there. It sounds obvious, but it is very easy to get carried away and start assembling the model without checking. A missing piece will, of course, stop you from finishing the model which is far more annoying when you’re halfway through building rather than at the start of the project.

Washing

You may find that the components of your kit have a slight glossy sheen to them. This is caused by the release agent that is used to help remove the parts from the moulds more easily. This release agent can prevent glue and paint from properly adhering to the model, so it is important to wash your miniatures.

To wash your miniatures, you will need some lukewarm water and dishwashing/washing-up liquid. Simply place the resin components into the soapy water and leave them to soak for five minutes, then gently scrub each part with an old toothbrush. This will ensure that any traces of release agent are removed. Once they have been scrubbed, rinse them thoroughly and allow them to dry.

Some resins may still appear shiny or slightly marbled after washing, this is absolutely normal and you should be fine to move onto the next steps. This is generally caused by the reaction of the resin to newer moulds.

Removing Feeds and Wells

Feeds and wells are created to allow resin to be poured into the mould, meaning that this is where you will find most of the excess resin that needs to be removed if there is any. The most common forms of these are large rectangle shapes that the bottom of the piece is attached to (ours is stamped with Warcradle Studios).

These will need to be removed with a pair of clippers and a file. Clip the gate at a point just above where it joins the resin component using your clippers, being careful not to snip it off right next to the actual component. Clippers often damage either side of where they are lined up meaning if you clip too close you could damage the component. After clipping most of the excess away, use a craft knife to remove the last of the feed and a file to ensure a smooth finish.

Cleaning Mould Lines, Shims and Flash

Just like with plastic miniatures, resin components will often be a slight line that shows where the mould joins together during the manufacturing process. Flash or shims, on the other hand, are formed usually by a gap in the mould (deliberately or not) which allows resin to flow through. Both are usually very fine, but nevertheless they will need removing so that they don't show up after painting.

Mould lines, shims and flash membranes can be removed with a modelling knife or file by carefully scraping or filing them away. A smooth surface can be restored with some fine edged files. This shouldn't take too long and makes a big difference to the finished model.

Filling Surface Air Bubbles

Rarely in the casting process, small surface air bubbles form. These can easily be filled with a small amount of modelling putty or a carefully applied drop of superglue. Once filled, you can file the spot down so that the transition from resin to putty is seamless.

Assembly

Dry Fitting

Before glueing any components together it is a good idea to dry fit them. Dry fitting is a form of test-fitting without any glue, a useful way to see any potential problems such as slight gaps between the various components. If there is an uneven join then you can take a file to it before glueing to save yourself some hassle once it is glued.

Warping

Warping can easily occur with thin components due to the casting process. To get a warped piece back to its correct shape, position, or even to just reshape a piece like a staff, tentacle or arm, the easiest way is to immerse the component in hot water. You can also use a low heat on a heat gun or hair dryer instead.

You should leave the part in hot water for roughly thirty to sixty seconds, then carefully remove it and gently bend it. You’ll probably see the part straighten itself out and return to the correct shape as the heat works through it. It is useful to have a cup of cold water to hand to rapidly cool parts once they are the correct shape.

Do not heat resin with any kind of flame or use food equipment like a domestic oven or microwave.

Filling Gaps

If after correcting any warping of components there is a gap, this will need to be filled. Glue the components together as straight as possible but don't worry if it leaves a gap. Once the glue has set, you can use a small amount of modelling putty to fill the gap. To save both time and putty it is best to glue all your components that will need to be filled at the same time. Once the putty has set it can be filed flat to create a smooth, seamless, surface.

Priming and Painting

We recommend priming your model as you would the rest of your miniatures, with a high quality undercoat or primer. Once you are satisfied that your undercoat has adhered to your assembled resin miniature, treat it like any non-resin miniature in your collection and get painting!